Saturday, June 25, 2011

Brunch at Acitrón Mexican Bistro in Arlington Center

I first spotted Acitrón Mexican Bistro in Arlington Center about a month ago, where the Rio Brazilian BBQ used to be. Ever hopeful, I dragged my husband to their weekend brunch today in celebration of his birthday.

The brunch menu has a fun and eclectic selection including some Mexican twists on traditional brunch fare such as Huevos Benedictinos, which serves the poached eggs and Canadian bacon in corn tortilla shells along with refried beans, avocado, and chipotle hollandaise sauce, and Crepas de Fresas con Crema (crepes with strawberries topped with cream sauce). It also has a decent kids' menu, offering chocolate chip pancakes, grilled cheese sandwich, and kids' quesadillas.

Predictably, my four-year-old opted for the chocolate chip pancakes, while my seven-year-old ordered adult-sized french toast. My husband's curiosity was peaked by the Huevos con Nopales (cactus) y Chorizo, and I chose the Tortitas de Zucchini con Huevos.

The three chocolate chip pancakes, served with butter and syrup, also came with a small dipping bowl of chocolate sauce, which delighted my seven-year-old. She cheerfully traded all her blackberries and part of her watermelon to my four-year-old for the sauce, which she then poured all over her Texas-style french toast. The pancakes were thin but light, flavorful, and not overpowered by the chocolate chips. Similarly, the french toast (before the chocolate sauce) was light and tasty, not overly heavy with egg batter. Aside from the berries and watermelon, the french toast (also topped with syrup) was accompanied by a slice each of papaya and cantalope. My seven-year-old inhaled the entire dish, except the berries and papaya, which is quite a complement coming from someone with such a picky palate.

My husband's scrambled eggs with nopales and chorizo was quite good: firmly cooked with the right proportion of chorizo to present flavor without overpowering the eggs. Unfortunately, the flavor of the cactus was rather lost in the eggs and chorizo. If you fished out just a bite of nopales, the mild, slightly fruity flavor became more apparent. This dish, like the Tortitas de Zucchini, was served with homefries drizzled lightly with chipotle mayonnaise.

By far the best dish was the Tortitas. Rather like zucchini griddle cakes with kernels of corn, the tortitas were light, not at all greasy as such cakes often are, and quite delicious. The eggs were poached perfectly and topped with salsa verde, made primarily of pureed tomatillos but with a very pleasant kick. The combination of flavors was outstanding. I'd order this dish again in a hot minute and may have to try making those tortitas at home.

This brunch was good enough that I'm now seriously intrigued by their dinner menu. The Queso Fundido con Chorizo sounds wonderful, and I'm encouraged by their wide array of stuffed green chiles: traditional chiles rellenos using poblanos, Crepas de Rajas Poblanas, a nice reversal that stuffs crepes with chiles, and especially, Chiles en Nogada, "Fire roasted poblano peppers stuffed with seasoned ground beef and topped with a sweet white creamy sauce made of nuts, spices and cream cheese." 

That last dish sounds custom made for my husband. Personally, I think I have to try the Pechugas Poblana, "A legendary blend of spices, chilies, nuts and Mexican chocolate made into a rich and flavorful sauce, in the traditional Puebla style, served over chicken." I can't wait.

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